In 1993, Issey Miyake launched his ‘Pleats Please’ line, implementing a special pleating technique that allowed the garments to be washed and dried without losing their shape. From 1996 to 1998, he called upon 4 different artists to use the pleats as a blank canvas. The collection would be known as the ‘Guest Artists Series.’
The first collaboration was with Japanese artist Yasumasa Morimura, who reinterpreted Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’ ‘La Fuente.’
The second release commissioned controversial photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, known for his bondage scenes.
Miyake met Tim Hawkinson at his exhibition in the US. The artist created a collage of his own body parts printed onto dresses and overalls.
The last of the ‘Guest Artists Series’ was with Cai Guo Qiang, who detonated gunpowder in the shape of a traditional Chinese dragon on the pleated fabric. The burn marks were then digitally printed on the commercialized pieces. The performance and resulting installation was showcased at the Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain.