Le Dé d'Or

The Dé d’Or was once the most prestigious French fashion award. Every season, 24 journalists from around the world voted on the best haute couture collection.

However in the early 90s several houses began presenting only one couture collection per year to survive the strains of the economic crisis. Some ateliers even closed for good. In addition, the award was strictly reserved for members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, and the French public dismayed when foreigners such as Gianfranco Ferre won the prize. As a result, many maisons boycotted the awards.

Yves Saint Laurent, who consistently rejected the strict nature of haute couture and who famously forwent the Dé d’Or ceremony from the start, released the statement: “Cela ne nous concerne pas. Nous n'avons pas changé d'opinion sur la manifestation qui s'apparente au système des chaises tournantes, et sur son intérêt. Si on nous apporte le Dé d’Or, on le mettra sur nos étagères.”

Awarded to some of the greatest couturiers in history since its inception in 1976, the final Golden Thimble award was accorded in 1990, and only revived once more in 1994.

 

French designer Claude Montana displays his women's haute couture line for Lanvin at the 1990-1991 Autumn-Winter fashion show in Paris. He his holding the Golden Thimble award, which he won for his creations. (Photo by Pierre Vauthey/Sygma/Sygma via Getty Images)Pierre Cardin is photographed with the Golden Thimble, an award giving by the Parisian Haute Couture for presenting the most creative collections of the season. He was given the distinction in the years 1977, 1979 and 1982. PHOTO COURTESY OF PIERRE CARDIN ARCHIVESFrench model Ines de la Fressange poses with the "golden thimble" awarded by Chanel on July 31, 1986 in Paris. Reserved to the best collection of the season, this golden thimble is attribuated by a specialised journalists jury. AFP PHOTO PIERRE GUILLAUDFrench aristocrat and fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy poses with the golden thimble of the French Fashion on January 28, 1982 in Paris. Reserved to the best collection of the season, this golden thimble is attribuated by a specialised journalists jury. AFP PHOTO PIERRE GUILLAUDFrench designer Emanuel Ungaro poses after he was awarded with the De d'Or (Golden Thimble) in Paris on January 31, 1980. Photo by Pierre GUILLAUD / AFPFrance, Paris, 26-07-1979. Fashion show of Per Spook, autumn/winter 1979-1980 Haute Couture collection. Receives the De d'Or award for best high fashion collection. Champs Elysees.

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