On October 19th, emerging designer Martin Margiela staged his Spring / Summer 1990 collection, not in the lavish tents overlooked by the Musée du Louvre, but in the 20th arrondissement at a location determined by a group of suburban schoolchildren.
Margiela had commissioned the local elementary students to create his invitations, sending out 500 letters, each different from the other.
Invitees were seated on a first-come-first-served basis, and Margiela reserved the front row for the kids to thank them for lending him their space. Journalists from the New York Times, Vogue, and Elle all journeyed to the outskirts of Paris to cover the spectacle, with mixed reviews.
Margiela had instructed his models to walk naturally, and to keep their hair uncut and disorderly. His makeup artist, Inge Grognard, recalls Margiela's desired look: "It was an effect that was reminiscent of those little accidents you have when you’ve just finished your make-up, like you’re wearing your sweater and smudging your mascara."
As the show progressed, the schoolchildren lost all restraint, and by the end had integrated themselves into the show. They began walking alongside the models, igniting an atmosphere of chaos which aptly complimented Margiela's unconstricted vision.
Martin Margiela rejected the perfection and pretentiousness of the fashion industry. His sense of 'realness' was reflected in his collections, as in his disinterest for fame and stardom (he famously never gave a formal interview and very few images of him exist). Margiela was a pioneer of deconstructivism and a lasting force for anti-fashion.
Photos by Jean-Claude Coutausse